Daily Update- Clutch Performance

Still trying to figure out what parts from where go where. These are notes from the Yahoo GTX board:

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Looks like you've got a 2wd bellhousing plate. The oil pans are slightly different.

MT

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You definetly have an extra hole in the spacer plate. That should not be a big deal as long as the four critical holes (the two with the dowels and the two top ones) line up (the others are nice to have but not critical). Do you have equivelent rub marks on the clutch that match up with the rub marks on the bell housing? To answer your stack height question, assemble your clutch to your flywheel and measure the stack height and let us know how high it is and what is the highest point. Several of us either have measurements (Greg?) or have assemblies we can measure and compare.

Bob

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it looks about right, the thickness should be a bit less than 2mm.

MT and Bob say it a 2WD plate, but it should work even if it has an extra hole tab. I would cut that extra tab off if it were me.

What combination of flywheel and pressure plate are you using?

Greg Downing

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A centerforce clutch is easy to identify - there should be weights wired to the clutch pressure plate springs. Again, can you measure your stack height
or at least measure the flywheel? I'll compare your measurements to my
spare.

Bob

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I went out and checked the few I have here and no spring. The plates are exactly the same thickness 1.14mm the only difference is the extra mounting hole for the fwd tranny.

Clay

Daily Update- the thick and thin of it

Still at a standstill. It doesn't seem to be making sense with what parts are inside the clutch.
Still don't know why we had rubbing between the pressure plate and the bell housing.
Still don't know why the throwout bearing came of the shaft.
Still don't know why the spacer plate between the engine and the transmission has an extra mounting hole that was pounded 90 degrees off flat. Is it too thick or thin?

Going to take the shop manual back in and see if there's anything in there about any of these questions.

Daily Update- nothing

Pulled the clutch, and everything looks fine. Still trying to get mesurement specs on the pressure plate, but we're going to compare it to the part they have on hand. No contact with Mazda Racing yet. Going to give it a few days and see if anything happens.

Daily Update- Rubbin's Racing

Went down to the shop and brought up to speed. They had both clutch kits, and the Turbo housing matched the installed housing instead of the non-turbo.

From what I came to understand, the pressure plate has rubbed against the bell housing. We know the bell housing is correct, as it has the 4wd parts integral to the casting. We know the clutch kit/ pressure plate is correct, and that the clutch plates are not in need of replacement. We have no idea when the rubbing happened, but since the clutch kit looks new, it has to have been receintly.

So, the questions we currrently have are thus:
At what point does the Capri (engine) end and the GTX start?
There doesn't seem to be a spacer we can remove.
Is the flywheel housing correct for the Capri or GTX? Is it different?
I've checked the GTX vin# to confirm it's a GTX. Is there a way to check the Vin# of the Capri engine to tell if the engine is a turbo?

Daily Update- Under Pressure

Received the replacement clutch pressure plate. Visually, it looks like the installed unit. They also ordered the non-turbo pressure plate so we can compare that. It's not there yet but should be today. The problem is that this is rubbing against the transmission, so we're not sure if something- the plate, the housing or something isn't stock.

Going to go in tomorrow morning and take a look.

Daily Update- Under Pressure

Clutch pulled. Yes, it was the throwout bearing that was off center out of it's correct position. However, they noticed that the pressure plate is rubbing against the front of the transmission. Checking to see if it's the correct pressure plate. Clutch plates seem new, so no replacement necessary.

Daily Update- the Rust Monster

Went in to examine the under body rust. Only two places it had taken hold, both of them just behind the front wheels. Each patch is about hand sized, and flaking, but not through yet. This made me happy, and after talking with my service writer, I decided to go ahead with the transmission repair. The BOOK says it's an 8 hour job, so $800, plus whatever parts cost. I'm having them do a preventative clutch job when they're inside if there's any question, and also having them replacing the missing bolts as they button it up. I'll apply some POR-15 (if that's the right stuff) anti-rust paint when I get it back (and use it on my Czech gas cans).

slave install update

Scope doesn't show anything. They need to pull transmission to fix whatever the problem is. I'm willing to spend the $800+ to fix this, if this is the end of the road for repairs. Unfortunately, there's no way to know, as I didn't get enough time with the car to find out what other problems it has.
I'm having them put the car up and examine the under body and frame for condition/ rust. If that isn't bad, I think I'll have them go into the transmission and fix this problem, as well as debug any potential problems like giving it a clutch job.

bad news

Went to install the new slave cylinder, and it wouldn't go in. Could be the throw-out bearing/ release bearing. They're going to scope it tomorrow and hopefully have good news for me. Not good news would be an 8hr job.

Lunch update

Called the shop, my service writer was at lunch, left msg asking about status of Slave Cyclinder part order. 1:50pm.

UPDATE, 3:00pm Part was ordered FRI, but after shipping deadline. Was overnighted today, should come in and be installed tomorrow (TUE)