More second hand GTX problems

Just got another update on my ex car.
Water pump belt (not the accessory belt that had problems before?) snapped. This was fixed, but then soon afterwards the water pump itself exited the vehicle. I guess it didn't unscrew first but pulled the screws out. I believe it's not fixed yet, and there's no idea on time frame. If the screws stripped, might have to heli-coil to put in new threads. I wonder what the thermostat said during the belt and water pump problems? I replaced the sending unit so the dash would read the temp, but afterwards it never went up more than a little more than before the replacement. I assumed the actual thermostat was a low temp unit and kept it cool.

This car can't stay running. I feel bad about this affecting a friend.

User error

While I heard this second hand, I believe it to be true.
I may have mentioned that the accessory belt was squealing on startup. The new owner adjusted it so it didn't do that. I assumed he made it tighter. If it was looser, it wouldn't turn the accessories, including the alternator which charges the battery. Then, when he replaced the alternator, I would have assumed he'd tighten the belt again.
What I heard is that it was loose and not turning the alternator and that's why it wasn't charging the battery. Don't know if the mechanic figured this out or he did.

all good, all bad

I talked to him and he tested the extra alternator and it was ok. He ended up swapping it himself, and the car left him stranded again, and the first alternator is also showing as good. So, we have 2 good batteries and 2 good alternators, so the problem must be a weird electrical gremlin. Told him I'd pay to fix it.

alternator updated

Talked to him, and he confirmed the information I'd received second hand. He does have a spare battery, so they know it's not a battery problem. I told him to take the spare alternator to a parts store to test it (which I think some do), and if it's good, install it. I'd go help him tomorrow, when I normally have a day off, but I have to work instead. I still think, and he confirmed looking at the shop manual, that this is an easy job although Mobil rates it 3 of 5.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/DIY/Replacing_An_Alternator.aspx

I've offered to pay for a replacement alternator if the spare is bad. If I do, it'll be a rebuild unit. I won't bother saving more buying a junkyard unit, nor spring for a new unit that costs 50% more.

Gone, but not forgotten

Sold the GTX two weeks ago; did the title update on Tuesday. Today, I hear that it stranded the new owner with no power. Battery ran dead because the alternator failed. I checked the list of spare parts I received (and handed off) with the GTX, and an alternator was one of them.
I also checked the original inspection, and there was nothing about electrical problems other than a partially charged battery.

I believe this is an easy fix. Given that he has the part and the shop manual. Normal billable hours is 2-3hrs, a good afternoon project.

Car almost beat me

Right after I posted the last entry I went out to the GTX to drive home, and the driver door was frozen shut. After trying to get it loose, I tried the passenger door. It too was frozen shut. Again it refused to budge. After going back and forth trying to get them open, I tried the hatch, and it opened easily. My parcel shelf has been wired for speakers, so I can't remove it. So, I dropped the back seats and crawled into the back, under the shelf, into the back seat. I righted the back seats, and moved both the front seats to allow easier access to the driver's seat. Once in the front, I started the car, managed to shoulder the driver door open and used my scraper to clear snow and ice and drove home.

Drove it again two days later. No problems getting in and starting it, but when I turned the defroster on, it started snowing in the car. Not having AC, it was sucking outside air into the car. Once the engine warmed up, the hot air prevented it from snowing. Still, a weird effect. When it first started, I checked to see if the moon roof had opened or leaked.

La Machine!

The weather report was for snow Thursday morning and more Friday. I wanted to make sure I had the GTX back to take advantage of the snow. I arranged to pick it up on Tuesday, and after filling it up, and an uneventful drive home (even the seat felt more comfortable than I remember). I pre-staged it for snow. Today we had 7 inches of light, fluffy snow. The GTX didn't miss a beat and felt wonderful doing four wheel drifts.
The front windshield had a little fog that I couldn't get rid of, but I didn't try high fan with heat, only cold. I noticed a tunnel under the snow on the roof at the back of the sunroof, but didn't detect any leaking inside. I also noticed the dome light was working, for the second time ever; will check that again tonight.

It's waiting for me, covered in ice, with small icicles hanging from the front bumper. I'm looking forward to the trip home!

update 11/7

We're stuck. At this point I'm told we need to remove the transmission (again) to proceed, and I'm not willing to pony up another $600 to do that. I told them to put it back together. Hopefully I still have an open AWD system.

Update, still stuck

They still can't get the center diff out to check the motor. He said they got it 3/4 the way, but don't want to force it as Mazda doesn't carry that part anymore. He's gonna check with the tech today, but thinks that they need to crack open the transmission to go further, and that's $600, and much more than I wanted to pay. He said we'll talk tomorrow once he talks to the tech.

Update 10/25

Center diff lock still stuck. Brad believes the unlocking screw accessed behind the bolt HAS been turned / unlocked,but the motor is still stuck.  He hit it with penetrating oil last Friday and will see if that helps get it loose Wednesday or Thursday.

Center Diff Dis-assembly instructions

From the GTX Yahoo group:

Posted by: "Bob Martin"

Thu Oct 6, 2011 7:07 am (PDT)

Remove 12 mm locking bolt from transmission (this one takes a couple of long
extensions to get to from above). It is hard to see. It is right next to the
diff lock sensor.
Disconnect two wiring harness connectors for diff lock motor (easiest to do
from the engine compartment but can be done from underneath).
Remove passenger side front tire. Remove the pasenger side splash shield.
Thse two steps might be skipped if you are using a hoist but you can see a
lot better if you do them.
Remove 17 mm bolt from end of diff lock motor.
Loosen three 12 mm bolts holding diff lock motor in place. Tap motor a
little to loosen it up and remove any preload from the shaft.
Insert flat blade screwdriver (you may have to grind down the sides to get
it to go in) into hole exposed by removal of 17 mm bolt. Turn diff lock
actuating rod 90 degrees clockwise (or, was that counter-clockwise? I can
never remember).
Remove three 12 mm bolts and remove diff lock motor.

You can bench test the diff lock by pulling out the rod and seeing if the
diff locks. If not, you have an internal transmission problem.

After cleaning and regreasing the diff lock motor (which solves 90% of diff
lock issues), be sure to put it in the unlocked position before reassmebly
and make sure the rod is pushed in.

Good luck,

Bob

10/18/11 update

Maybe an update. Still no actual progress. Was told they tried to remove the motor, maybe yesterday, and failed. Tech is going to read up and maybe try again.

Unplugged radio, so the center diff has 12v, but no movement of the motor. Took the 17mm bolts off and turned the screw, but motor wouldn't budge. I assumed they followed the directions I send them to disassemble the Center Diff.

10/10 update

Disconnected the stereo, and had the correct power to the motor, but on a test drive, it still wouldn't engage. He's gonna try and stay late WED to again check the motor.

I'm going to send him a message from the GTX board that might help him.

NEWS!

A real update! They hooked up an electric probe and there is power on both ends of the motor, but it isn't enough power, only 6 volts. He mentioned that when the button was pushed that the radio came on. I'd never noticed this because the radio was already on. He thinks the radio is on the same circuit, so he's going to unhook the radio's power and see if the motor resumes working... next weekend.

Also, I'm having them run the car next door to Auto Collision Specialists next door to them and have them look at the underside. I hope to get a diagnoses and maybe do some sort of anti rust spray.

Honey Do, GTX Don't

No progress this past weekend, tech never made it down to diagnose; had too many Honey Dos. He's going to try again this weekend.

Another Week, another ZERO update.

Actually game them 11 days, as they said they would be talking about it last WED.

Still busy, haven't had a chance to do ANYTHING about the center diff lock. Brad SAYS he may go in this weekend himself and try and diagnose the problem. I'm still assuming it's a motor problem, and that the electrics are working fine. If this is the case, we should be able to rewind or replace the motor.

RTFM?

Went in person this morning to find out what's happening after the vague email requesting information on fixing the locking center diff. Brad wasn't there, tech was busy. Wasted surprise visit.

Brad called later in the afternoon, said he took the manual home over the weekend and found some stuff the tech may have missed. He is going to meet with tech midweek and compare notes. I figure we should just work our way backwards from the motor:
Is the motor getting power? (yes means dead motor)
Is the button sending power? (there's a modulator that's confusing them, but I expect it's only to flash the light on the button until the motor is locked on or off.)
If both answers are yes, then the problem is the wiring between the two.

I assume they understand what the system is supposed to do.

17 Days Later, no change

They say they've looked at it, but are stuck. The button signal isn't making it to the motor, they believe. Took the dash apart and there's an ossolator (?) that they don't understand. I assume it just flashes the light until it it receives the OK from the motor locking.
SO, they're sending me an email with some questions I will post to the GTX board.

Battery rattle

I haven't noted this yet, but I noticed the battery isn't secured.  There's a universal kit from Advance Auto Parts that should work.

The stuff they wanted to fix is fixed, the stuff they've been ignoring is still ignored.

Rear defroster and temp gauge fixed. They've still forgotten to fix the center diff lock. I told them to work on it. Maybe they didn't understand what I was asking, but I think they do now.